Personal Landscapes
Personal Landscapes
Isabella Tree on Nepal’s living goddess
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Isabella Tree on Nepal’s living goddess

In a small medieval palace on Kathmandu’s Durbar Square, a young girl chosen from a caste of Buddhist goldsmiths watches over this broad valley and protects the country and its people.

She’s the embodiment of Devi, the universal goddess, and Hindu kings have sought her blessings for centuries to legitimate their rule.

The living goddess is the stuff of legend, and the stuff of rumour. Did she really walk barefoot through bloody courtyards scattered with the severed heads of buffalo while demons leaped and howled in the shadows? How was she chosen? And what happens to her after the goddess inside her disappears?

Isabella Tree uncovered the secrets of this strange tradition over many years and many visits to Nepal. She peeled away the layers of myth, religious belief and modern history, and she slowly overcame the reluctance of priests and caretakers to meet Kathmandu’s living goddess herself.

Isabella Tree is the author of The Living Goddess, Islands in the Clouds, The Book of Wilding, and other books. Her work has appeared in Granta, National Geographic, The Sunday Times and other publications. She’s an award winning conservationist, and lives West Sussex, in the middle of the Knepp Wildland, the first large-scale rewilding project in lowland England.

You can read more about her on her website, and follow her on Instagram.

We spoke about the powers of the living goddess, how she is chosen, the connection to tantric ritual, and how the goddess foreshadowed the massacre of Nepal’s royal family.

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